Air Conditioning Quick Recovery Tips

 

Note:  If your air conditioning system is not cooling, we understanding how critical this can be during periods of high humidity and extreme temperatures.  We will do everything possible within our authority to get your system up and running as soon as possible.   Before dispatching an air conditioning vender after hours or on weekends, we would ask that you consider the checklist below, as this may help solve the problem and provide immediate relief.  The staff member on call with look up the maintenance data on your home and determine if the property owner has a maintenance contract, active warranty or designated vender before locating and dispatching a vender who is willing to respond after hours.

 

If your system is cooling, but does not seem adequate under extreme conditions, please consider the following: Most units are designed to cool the home to a temperature that is not more that 15-20 degrees below the exterior temperature, so 95-100+ degrees outside temperatures could yield an interior temperature in the low 80’s under these extreme conditions depending on insulation, shade, etc.  Improvement may be possible by replacing a restricted air filter and closing vents and doors in rooms that are not used during the day.

 

If your air conditioning system is not cooling, determine the following:

(a)     Is the (outside) compressor unit running?

(b)     Is the air handler (inside) unit operating – blowing air from the ducts?

(c)     Is the condenser drain line dripping or is it clogged with algae?

 

1.  If all components are running, but the system is not cooling, there are a number of possible easy fixes:

(a) the condenser coils could be frozen, perhaps due to a dirty air filter or low refrigerant level.  Turn the system off and check the air filter on the air handler unit.  If it is excessively dirty, replace disposable filter or vacuum a permanent filter.  Air restriction is a common cause of frozen coils.

·         With the system in OFF position, place the fan in the ON position for approximately 2 hours.  If the coils are frozen, you may be excessive drainage from the air handler condensation drain.

·         After two hours, turn to thermostat to COOL and the fan to AUTO. 

·         If the unit is cooling, but the filter was not dirty, it could be an indication of low refrigerant level. If the problem persists, contact the property management staff.

 

2.  If either the condenser or the air handler is not operating, Check as many as four (4) possible circuit breakers and if installed a compressor interrupt switch at the condenser drain pan. 

·         The main breaker is often located in the exterior breaker panel located on the side of your home where the power lines attach. The box often contains 3-6 large breakers. If you are unsure as to whether or not the breaker is tripped, turn each one off completely, wait a few seconds and reset (one at a time).

·         The second possible breaker may be located just above the outside compressor condenser unit and is often located in a small breaker box of its own.

·         The third circuit breaker may be located in the interior breaker (or fuse) panel. This breaker most often controls the interior air handler unit.

·         The 4th possible breaker could be located in a closet near the air handler unit.

·         Reset all thermostat settings.

·         Compressor interrupt switch:  If your air handler is in the attic or other location that requires condensation to be captured in a drain pan, the drain pan may have a float switch that interrupts compressor operation when the system drain is clogged and the pan is full of water.  This float switch help prevent the drain pan from overflowing.  If this is the case, the drain line must be unclogged with water or air pressure and the float switch will then reactivate the compressor.  To prevent this from reoccurring a cup of liquid bleach or copper sulfate crystals poured into the drain line will destroy growing algae.

 

Consider extreme conditions:

·         Most units are designed to cool the home to a temperature that is not more that 15-20 degrees below the exterior temperature, so 95-100+ degrees outside temperatures could yield an interior temperature in the low 80’s under these extreme conditions depending on insulation, shade, etc.

 

Water to Air Heat Pump Systems:

·         These systems rely on water input, typically from a well.  Check to be sure that the unit is pumping and discharging water. If there is no discharge, either the well pump or the intake control valve may have failed. See the information on well-pumps below.